![]() I had installed all the engine electrical components on the timing chest cover, so they had to be removed. I did not find that out until a day later when I tried to rotate the engine by turning the flywheel in preparation for removing the flywheel to replace the rear main seal. NOTE: This time the nose bearing did not seat all the way into the bore of the timing chest cover. I installed new stainless steel bolts from a bolt kit in the four bottom holes which are outside the front engine cover and used the 5 of the original Allen bolts and 3 Allen nuts and torqued them down. The cover slides on the crankshaft nose bearing easily, so I have not needed to use the Cycle Works tools. I’ve had good success by heating the cover in the oven to 275 F. R75/6 Replace Timing Chain, Crankshaft Sprocket, Nose Bearing: Install New Inner Timing Cover Gasket and Two “Donut” Gaskets.It’s important to clean the gasket mating surface of the engine block and the rear of the timing chest cover before mounting the gaskets. The procedure is the same as I followed for the R75/6. New Metal Diode Board Mounts Installed Install Timing Chest Cover I marked the crankshaft sprocket teeth behind the timing mark so I can see the mark when the timing chain is installed. R75/6 Replace Timing Chain, Crankshaft Sprocket, Nose Bearing: Install New Crankshaft Nose Bearing.R75/6 Replace Timing Chain, Crankshaft Sprocket, Nose Bearing: Install New Crankshaft Sprocket.The procedures are the same as what I documented for the R75/6. I install a new timing chain, crankshaft sprocket and nose bearing and timing chest cover gaskets. I install new metal diode board mounts to replace the original rubber mounts. I refinished the timing chest cover to remove the corrosion and bring the finish back to as close to original condition as I can. The camshaft is not bent, so the rubbing must be due to misalignment of the pickup plate itself. Here is a short video of the measurement.ĬLICK VIDEO TO RUN: Checking Camshaft Nose Run Out The crankshaft nose is covered by the Cycle Works puller nose.ĭial Indicator Mounted To Check Cam Nose Run Out ![]() Here is the front of the engine with the engine electric components removed from the timing chest cover. New work I did on the R100RS project includes replacing the tachometer drive cable and measuring the run out of the camshaft to see if it’s straight. I previously did this much of this work on my 1975 R75/6 and where the procedure is the same for this 1977 R100RS, I provide links to the R75/6 procedure.
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